Ice/Rock Climber
What MH are you wearing now?
Microchill fleece.
Which season do you enjoy the most?
Summer – for Deep Water Soloing. It has become my favorite climbing style.
What is your favorite pre-outing “pump-up” music?
Usually progressive house. At the moment Nigel Marcussen, James Lavelle, Steve Lawler, Danny Howells and so on.
What’s your favorite meal in the outdoors?
Swedish meatballs with the special sauce that they come with. Nothing beats the real thing but you can get them as pre-packed meals which work for camping.
Do you have a dream project?
I have a Deep Water Solo project somewhere in the UK but, for obvious reasons, I can’t say where.
How did you first get started with climbing? How old were you?
I first went top-roping at a local sandstone crag with my Father, but my first trad climbing experience was with a school teacher. I placed really good protection on the first pitch of a multi-pitch route but I didn’t clip myself into the belay. My teacher nearly fell off seconding the pitch and he was pretty surprised and shocked when he got to the belay!
Who/What is your inspiration?
I have always admired people who have to try really hard to get good. I’m not particularly inspired by the naturals who put on a pair of rock shoes and climb 8c.
Any advice for folks wanting to become involved in climbing?
Modern climbing walls are great for gaining strength and technique, but it takes years to know what to do with them on a mountain. No matter how well you climb indoors, you have to put your pride to one side and start with the easiest grades when you go outside.
What can you tell today’s youth about life in the outdoors?
I live in London and my experiences of the mountains are the perfect antidote. I wouldn’t change them for anything.
Favorite Quote?
“Do or do not do. There is no try.” – Yoda (Empire Strikes Back)
Personal Highlights:
Getting married in 2003
My book with Tim Emmett, ‘Preposterous Tales’
Career Highlights:
3rd ascent of Indian Face E9 6c 1995
2nd ascent of Equilibrium E10 7a 2002
1st ascent of the Wizard F8a 2004 (UK’s first ground-up 8a DWS)
1st ascent of Cutlass F8a+ 2007 (UK’s first ground-up 8a+ DWS)
Masterclass training DVDs 2005
Recent Activities:
First ascent of Cutlass, 8a+, ground-up. The hardest Deep Water Solo in the UK in 2007.
Trip to Colombia in 2008 (I repeated some of the hard local sport routes, including ‘El Mago’ 8a+)
Release of ‘Get out on Rock!’ the first dedicated rock climbing instructional DVD in the UK.
Author of ‘Winter Climbing+’ – an instructional book on winter climbing, published by Rockfax.
Bio:
Neil Gresham is one of Britain’s most well known all-round climbers. Having repeated the notorious Indian Face (E9) on Cloggy and Equilibrium (E10) on Peak grit, Neil went on to make many hard first ascents in exotic destinations such as Brazil, Mongolia, Cuba, Vietnam and China. His recent Devon route, Cutlass was the first ground-up ascent of an 8a+ Deep Water Solo in the UK. Neil is also regarded as one of Britain’s foremost climbing coaches and he is the regular training correspondent for Climber magazine. He runs regular 1:1 coaching sessions and holidays to Fontainebleau and Kalymnos. He currently coaches the British competition team. See
www.climbingmasterclass.com
Visit Neil's website -- http://www.neilgresham.com/